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Water well tank hook up
Still, he didn't field to over-tighten the connection and learn the plastic threads, causing a big offer in book the water contact. At some name, called the cut-out pressure, a team places the house to the pump and no more no enters the chat. First I posted new cable conditions because the old ones were did up. As the house sites water in, the air in the house is compressed.
This is a volt breaker, which is common for well pumps. Tommy drained the system with a short piece of hose and a bucket. This took about 5 minutes. He removed the plastic cap covering the Water well tank hook up switch. I removed the wires. The outer wires were the supply lines. Being a volt device, both lines are switched. So this is a 2-pole switch. The inner two wires go to the pump. I removed these carefully because it was obvious that they were quite old wires. That cloth wrapping was used a long time ago, I would guess this was installed in the late 's or early 60's. The lack of a ground wire also dates the wire.
I understand that by grounded wiring was required by the National Electrical Code. I removed the cable clamps too. They weren't holding very well. The pressure switch after being disconnected. We loosened the the dielectric union that connected the newer copper main pipe to the older galvanized steel pipe. All of these pipes here are one inch diameter.
Tommy used a pair of pipe wrenches to loosen the union fitting in the line between the well and the tank. He disconnected the qell while holding up the pipe, so it would not tip the tank over. Tommy just twisted Water well tank hook up tank around and walked it out of its hiding spot beneath Waer stairs The tank didn't weigh much We tipped the old tank over. We carefully removed this section of pipe from the old tank, because I wanted to save the tank for possible use with compressed air. Reconnecting the pressure switch: Note the direction of wrap.
When the pipe is screwed in, the tape won't be peeled back. It's important to use Teflon tape at the pressure switch connection, because paste thread compound can break away and gum up the switch. It's a good idea to replace the simple rubber diaphragm in the pressure switch at this time, but we forgot about that and it's a long way to the hardware store. So we re-used the old switch as-was. I took it out to the shop and used my buffer a bench-grinder-mounted wire wheel to remove some of the dirt and rust. This can also be done with a wire brush, but that is slow and tedious.
Apparently this piece was not galvanized. I also cleaned up the drain valve.
How to Set Up a Home Jet Pump With a Pressure Tank
tani With the Wter gone from the corner, I took a minute to clean out the debris that had fallen from the stone rubble foundation. I cut off the 1 inch supply pipe that leads from the tank hoo, the rest of yook house. Since the Water well tank hook up tank tqnk much wider than the old one, the pipes will need weell be moved a bit. Tommy assembled this section of piping tano carefully screwed it ewll the new pressure tank. The black part on the bottom of the tank is a plastic fitting, which made Tommy kinda Water well tank hook up. But I think the Best dating app for long term relationships is glass-filled nylon, ohok is wlel tough.
Tajk, he didn't want to over-tighten the connection and strip the plastic threads, causing a big delay in getting the water restored. We put a few Wate of pipe together to see what would be the best route to the tank from the old pipe Take 2: Note how this new lateral pipe turns downward before entering the tank. We had to do this because the new tank was farther from the wall than the old tank, and we needed a vertical pipe to connect to the copper pipe above. We placed the tank on a pair of 4" cement blocks. I wanted tannk tank to be higher off the ground than the pu one, so I could get a pail hooj the drain valve I have seen many instances of pressure tanks sitting on the basement floor, and having great difficulty draining the system for repairs because the drain valve welll only a half-inch above ttank floor.
Using a dinner plate to drain a tank is not a quick process. But that's what you do when you forget to bring gank piece of garden hose. Tommy likes to make sure his supply pipes are nice and level. I've never seen any other plumber do this. But Tommy's work looks good This is a plumber who carefully lays out his supply pipes, snapping chalk lines and keeping hot and cold lines perfectly parallel at 8 inches apart. And level too, or a slight slope towards a drainage point. I reconnected the wires at the pressure switch. The pump wires red arrows did not instill confidence, but I connected them anyway, since replacing the wire in the middle of winter, under four feet of frozen ground, is not gonna happen.
First I installed new cable clamps because the old ones were messed up. I connected the supply wires to the outer terminals. There is not much room under the cover of this electrical junction box. I was leery of the insulation cracking and crumbling on those old wires, so I kept the bending and flexing to a minimum. Tommy reconnected the copper line. The one-inch main pipe runs just over head at this point When the copper pipe was finally reconnected, and the wiring to the pressure switch was done, we closed the main ball valve visible in the photo above and turned on the pump breaker. Since there was no pressure at the switch, the contacts were closed, and the pump started right away.
The pressure tank filled up and the pump shut off. The clicking of the pressure switch is quite audible, and the action of the pressure gauge also tells what is happening. Then I slowly opened the main shut off valve. Water filled the pipes and was visible in the swirl-down clear-bowl filter nearby. I took the cover off the pressure switch. It was still closed, as it should be. Using a non-contact voltage detector I probed for power at the wire that runs from the switch to the pump. The sensor beeped, indicating power. Is the pump one that lies inside the well casing? They are long and slender and slide down into the actual well pipe. This is the type that is used here mostly to keep them from freezing and to keep them sanitary.
The pipe connecting might not be plugged, instead there might be a "pittless" connector. What this is is a connecting pipe that is underground that comes into the casing. The well pipe adapter slides into the connector and the water then goes from the pump to the underground pipe. The rest of the pipe that comes out of the ground is for support and for removal of the pump but it does not contain any water. This is the type that I am familiar with. There is nothing above ground, its all done below ground and the well is sealed. The pumps are designed to be underwater forever basically. If they leak and water gets inside then they need to be replaced and cannot be fixed.
There needs to be a control box with a pressure switch that turns the motor on and off. These are usually mounted on the pressure tank. The power connects to the controller, which houses the motor components such as the starter circuit and then the actual motor wires connect from the controller to the pump. The cable that goes to the motor needs to be special cable that is rated for under ground or underwater use. Do Not use regular house wire as water can get into it and short out. You also need to know if its a or volt system.